how to choose fabric for natural dyeing
When you’re starting out with natural dyeing, I understand there’s a little uncertainty and almost fear about making a mistake, doing it wrong, and not knowing where to actually start. And that even comes down to not knowing what fabric to use. So, here’s a few different fabric types and why some are easier to start with than others.
Natural & botanical dyes work on natural fibres only, not synthetic fibres. So this means cotton and wool, rather than nylon or polyester, which are made of plastic (which is made of petroleum). You can use synthetic fibres with an indigo vat, but I don’t use it and don’t suggest using synthetics (unless you find it at op-shops, as a second hand material, or sometimes woven through another fabric as the second ply / weave).
So, in terms of natural fibres. There are different sorts that come under animal (protein) or plant (cellulose), both take natural dyes, but take the colour differently which is part of the fun of creating colour, in a way.
Animal / protein fibres are:
wool
silk
leather
feathers
Plant / cellulose fibres are:
cotton
linen
hemp
bamboo
rayon
tencel
Plant fibres can be either natural or manufactured, which means that the plant (wood, generally) is turned into a pulp and then extruded in a way similar to synthetic fibres. Some of these processes are more natural and some go through a massive chemical process. Consider how hard wood fibre - bamboo plant or trees - can become soft silky fabric.
If you’re purchasing bamboo, rayon, viscose or tencel check where it comes from and how it’s processed. Bamboo has properties like silk, which makes it exceedingly attractive (especially for vegans), but it’s not always the ‘eco / green’ fabric we might consider it to be.
For natural dyeing use any of these fabrics work beautifully. Natural dyes actually have an affinity with animal fibres, as the proteins in the fibre act like a velcro or magnet for the plant dyes. You will often achieve stronger and brighter hues on silk or wool than you will on linen or cotton.
The weight and weave of the fabric makes a difference too.
I wouldn’t generally recommend using calico as it has a coating on the fabric that makes it harder for the dye to penetrate (though that can be removed in the scouring process), but it’s also not the loveliest of weaves.
Looking at colour on fabric changes depending on the shimmer of the fabric. Different silks, for instance, offer different light reflective possibilities, especially as compared to a hemp or linen that is a ‘flatter’ appearance, in the weave. Raw silk compared to shimmery shiny silk sill give a different hue as well as different reflective possibilities.
The way we view colour is, in part, about what light shines back at us compared to what light is drawn into the fabric. So, while the fabric composition itself makes a difference in the dye pot, so too does the weave of the fabric.
Rather than being unfortunate that you can’t get the same tones from different fabrics, it’s actually a wonderful aspect - what it means is, that you can have one dye pot of colour and add in multiple fabric weaves, weights and compositions and get different shades.
A softer cotton, say gauze or muslin, soaks up and holds colour so much more than a dressmaking cotton. A thin fine linen scarf will take the colour differently than a heavy linen.
Mixed fibres are very interesting to work with as well, because then you get an unusual variegated look where the two different materials take the colour differently. If you have a yarn that is a 2ply with acrylic and natural fibres, you’ll find the acrylic generally stays white while the natural fibre will pick up the colour.
When you’re starting out, use what you have, what you can easily find. Experiment. No need to go and buy the most expensive wool or silk, but if you have an old blanket or a silk shirt put that in the dye pot. If you have some linen or cotton tea towels or table napkins try them. If you have a soft cotton scarf give that a go.
The most important thing I can say about natural dyeing in general, is to experiment, to step past the fear of making a mistake and make those mistakes. The best natural dye results I have achieved often come from mistakes and pushing experiments further and further. At the end of the day, it’s only some fabric and few leaves / avocado seeds / flowers.
And you can always over-dye any muddy mucky colours with some iron water, which often brings out the real magic and solves a lot of less-than-exciting natural dye experiments.
You might like to read these blog posts about natural dyeing as well, or check out my online course with videos and lots of botanical dye tutorials.
How to dye pink with loquat leaves
Dyeing with eucalyptus leaves
Solar dyeing with coreopsis flowers
